New Brunswick late summer adventure

  • 500 kms traveled
  • 06 blocks of blues and jazz
  • 3 lobster bibs soiled

We were four friends on a four-day getaway, one hot September in New Brunswick. Starting in Fredericton, we attended one giant downtown  jazz and blues jam, then off for the Bay of Fundy coastal drive. Along the way, we stuffed ourselves crazy with lobster and craft beer, jumped off a covered bridge, and went kayaking at Hopewell Rocks. We were part of the community by day two. And no one wanted to return home. 

Day 1
Downtown blues
Woke up in Fredericton to elm trees, Victorian houses and stone mansions. Comfort food was calling so we stopped in at Café Lou Lou for homemade grilled cheese and old-fashioned sodas. After a river stroll, we went craft beer crazy on the patio at the Garrison District Ale House. Downtown was buzzing. One giant Harvest Jazz and Blues Fest jam. Six blocks of performers, live music tents spilling music fans. We bought made-in-New Brunswick drum cymbals. In the evening, we caught Jill Barber’s smoldering voice over strings and horns at the Fredericton Playhouse. Torch song serenades made for a sweet night’s sleep.
Day 2
The mystical and mouth-watering
We left in darkness and saw the sun rise low on the horizon as we boarded the ferry to Deer island. Drifting in absolute quiet, surrounded by low-rising hills, eagles soaring, sea lions and porpoises popping in and out of the water was mystically beautiful. After a long day’s paddle, we checked-into the 1800s-built Rossmount Inn at St. Andrews where everyone is always smiling. For a foodie like me, this place was nirvana. Chef Chris Aerni gave us a tour of the gardens (Japanese herbs, mushrooms, edible flowers) before serving up a seven-course meal. Picture lobster on top of a summer succotash garnished with fried potatoes. Best meal of my life.
Day 3
Canon balls and clams
Breakfast in St. Andrews was a big bowl of muesli, fresh eggs and fruit. A perfect kick start for our breezy coastline hike. On the drive to Moncton we pulled into Ossie’s, a roadside café famous for tiny and tasty fried clams. So good! It was such a hot day so decided to make a splash and went swimming off a covered bridge—they’re all over New Brunswick. Just pick up a map. After coffee and coconut cream pie in St. John, we drove on to Moncton. City has a chill, young vibe. Full of hip pubs and restaurants. We fit right in!
Day 4
High-tide rush
You might call Anna-Marie a Bay Of Fundy superfan. Our guide from Roads To Sea Tours was passionate about her Fundy. She took us to the Hopewell Rocks to see the world’s highest tide (up to 16 metres!). Amazing rush. We broke out the bibs and lobster rolls at a lobster pound the locals love. We ate the east coast way, even the tentacles, all with our hands. Back to Hopewell Rocks for low tide and great views of the flowerpot rock formations. If you squint, they look like stone faces with tuffs of hair (trees) on top. We walked out on the ocean floor, mud squishing between our toes. Hit up the lighthouse at Cape Enrage and made a call on the “moose phone” at Fundy National Park. No answer yet.
Day 5
Cave culture kayak
We had to do it! We went back to explore Hopewell Rocks, this time by kayak. From the viewing platform up top, you see rippling chocolate waters and red-tinged rocks. But paddling on the ocean between the towering rocks is like entering a secret cavey cliff culture. We glided right through huge openings in the rocks, and sometimes floated right over them. Incredible views. We drove back to Fredericton in time to catch some acoustic blues on stage at the blues and jazz festival. Like a great tune, we ended on a high note. Ready to brag about it on Instagram @salutadam.